Wednesday afternoon, I met my group at Gare de Lyon (train station near my apartment) and we got the TGV to the south of France. It was surprisingly difficult to read on the train, but the trip went by quickly. After settling into our hotel, we walked along the beach to a restaurant. Delicious food, lots of wine, and a table looking right out over the water. We were staying in Juan-les-Pins, a town east of Cannes. Lots of jellyfish on the beach, but aside from that it was a great little place, with the classic coastal hills, palm trees, and sailboats.
Thursday morning, we woke up early and went to Cannes la Bocca (a western neighborhood of Cannes) where our movie theater is. After some time wading through the waves and looking for seaglass, we went back to the theater for our first film. It was a French movie about two brothers and war re-enactment. Fun, but not that deep. After lunch, we saw another movie in the same theater; this time there was a short film that used hundreds of logos as characters to tell a story (Ronald McDonald was a crazed criminal). The film following it was quite artsy, and mostly about mercury pollution in a South American town. Mixed reactions, but I mostly liked it. After going into Cannes and wandering around, we all met at the beach next to the official Cannes movie theater. There was a concert with oddly emo music on the beach, and then a film. We sat in the sand, on little beach chairs, as the sun was setting; the film was about two lovers, set in what I believe was Kyrgyzstan or somewhere nearby. Maybe it was closer to China.
Friday, we saw a film at 9am. An incredibly annoying, random, and strange animated film in the style of Robot Chicken. It was a movie marathon day, because at 11am we saw another movie: this time it was set in Thailand, I think, and was about a young couple and a nymph/wood spirit that enchanted the husband. Long, long shots, and some strange moments. Beautiful images, but mostly boring. I fell asleep. After a quick lunch, we saw the new Resnais film at 2pm, which was in the running for the main competition. It was really strange, with a script that drove me crazy, but the actual directing was brilliant. Later, we went swimming. Well, I was one of the few that actually got in the water. After lounging on the beach for a little while, I met up with another friend. We worked our way back to Cannes; I met a young British film editor who was in a tuxedo, on his way to see one of the famous films. He needed a date, but since I was not in a ball gown, I had to just wish him luck. Back at the hotel, my friend and I had a picnic and then met up with the rest of the crowd.
Saturday, we walked to a town called Antibes where we went to a classic southern France outdoor market, and then to the Picasso Museum. The coast was stunning, with a large bay and hills. We took the bus to another town, where we saw the Renoir House. We were able to see some of the inspiration for his paintings. I slept on a bench in the garden for a little while, and then the group got the bus again to an old town high up in the hills. It had tiny streets with old stones, and tons of little shops. My friend and I walked along the wall, poked through some more graves, and bought spices and jam. Dinner brought lots of wine, frightening fish, and a pick-up soccer game.
Sunday, we went kayaking on the Mediterranean. Beautiful, but exhausting. Then back to Paris.
Sorry this post is so late.
Monday, May 25, 2009
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Little Old Lady Philosopher
The first part of this story happened about a week ago. I was walking to class in the morning, around 9 am, reading a book on Heidegger (a German philosopher for those who do not know). A little old woman asked me in English about what I was reading, and when I asked if she knew Heidegger, she said that Heidegger was a Nazi and she hated him. I tried to respond, saying that Heidegger wrote Being and Time before he was a Nazi, but she interrupted me. She said, "I am German. My father was killed by the Nazis. I hate Heidegger."
I was pretty shocked, and especially since I had wondered if something like this would ever happen with him.
This morning, I was walking to school reading The History of Sexuality by Foucault. At the same intersection, I saw her again. I waved and showed her what I was reading, hoping to make amends somehow. When she saw my book, she said "ah, Education". Then paused, and said, "He died of AIDS. He was a homosexual." I replied, "Yes. He was gay." She said something like "They did not know that it was dangerous, then. When I went back to America in [some year in the mid 80s], there was suddenly AIDS." Then, she pauses for a moment, and looks at my necklace, telling me that it is very pretty. Then she looks me right in the face for a moment and says "You are very good looking." Then she starts to totter away, but not without throwing a kind little "good luck" over her shoulder.
I was pretty shocked, and especially since I had wondered if something like this would ever happen with him.
This morning, I was walking to school reading The History of Sexuality by Foucault. At the same intersection, I saw her again. I waved and showed her what I was reading, hoping to make amends somehow. When she saw my book, she said "ah, Education". Then paused, and said, "He died of AIDS. He was a homosexual." I replied, "Yes. He was gay." She said something like "They did not know that it was dangerous, then. When I went back to America in [some year in the mid 80s], there was suddenly AIDS." Then, she pauses for a moment, and looks at my necklace, telling me that it is very pretty. Then she looks me right in the face for a moment and says "You are very good looking." Then she starts to totter away, but not without throwing a kind little "good luck" over her shoulder.
Sunday, May 17, 2009
My Birthday
The week passed quickly (though I did see La Cantatrice Chauve a.k.a. The Bald Soprano in the original theater where it has been playing for over 50 years).
On my birthday, I went to class like normal, then after, I picked up some gorgeous Gerber daisies, as sort of a little personal celebration. It was raining, and I was holding these bright, beautiful flowers, with my purple umbrella. I looked down and saw the purple reflection on the ground, and felt like I was in a painting.
After lounging around my apartment all afternoon, which was wonderful, I met up with a couple of my friends at one friend's apartment. She had baked a vegan cake for me (total surprise), complete with 20 candles and presents. We met up with another friend at an incredible vegan restaurant in Paris, where I had what may be the best tofu ever. Later, we went the 11th arrondissement (district of Paris), to an street called Oberkampf, with a lot of bars. We met up with some other friends and went drinking, from bar to bar. Drinking age in Paris is 16, by the way, so they never ask for i.d.'s. At about 2am, I realized I had missed the metro (again, if anyone read the previous post), so my friend and I walked back to my apartment. For some reason, it didn't occur to me to take a cab. The walk took almost two hours, so I got home around 4am. I collapsed into bed fully dressed; in the morning, I realized that my host family had no idea, I just looked like I got completely ready for the day before I ate breakfast.
My group was going to Versailles, so I met up with the friend who baked the cake, who lives close by, and we went over to meet everyone else at 12:30. Versailles was beautiful, but I could not forget the implications of its wealth. The gardens were beautiful. It rained, so no one lingered. In Paris last night, the museums were free and open late. After eating some fantastic falafel, a friend and I went to the National Archives; long lines, but not boring. Many old bits of paper. Exhausted at this point, I had little interest in reading French, but we did make it a goal to find at least five references to people we recognized. Goal met, by the way.
I slept for twelve hours last night. Not sure what my host mom is thinking, after I woke up at 3:30 in the afternoon...
On Wednesday, I will be going to the south of France, to the Cannes Film Festival.
On my birthday, I went to class like normal, then after, I picked up some gorgeous Gerber daisies, as sort of a little personal celebration. It was raining, and I was holding these bright, beautiful flowers, with my purple umbrella. I looked down and saw the purple reflection on the ground, and felt like I was in a painting.
After lounging around my apartment all afternoon, which was wonderful, I met up with a couple of my friends at one friend's apartment. She had baked a vegan cake for me (total surprise), complete with 20 candles and presents. We met up with another friend at an incredible vegan restaurant in Paris, where I had what may be the best tofu ever. Later, we went the 11th arrondissement (district of Paris), to an street called Oberkampf, with a lot of bars. We met up with some other friends and went drinking, from bar to bar. Drinking age in Paris is 16, by the way, so they never ask for i.d.'s. At about 2am, I realized I had missed the metro (again, if anyone read the previous post), so my friend and I walked back to my apartment. For some reason, it didn't occur to me to take a cab. The walk took almost two hours, so I got home around 4am. I collapsed into bed fully dressed; in the morning, I realized that my host family had no idea, I just looked like I got completely ready for the day before I ate breakfast.
My group was going to Versailles, so I met up with the friend who baked the cake, who lives close by, and we went over to meet everyone else at 12:30. Versailles was beautiful, but I could not forget the implications of its wealth. The gardens were beautiful. It rained, so no one lingered. In Paris last night, the museums were free and open late. After eating some fantastic falafel, a friend and I went to the National Archives; long lines, but not boring. Many old bits of paper. Exhausted at this point, I had little interest in reading French, but we did make it a goal to find at least five references to people we recognized. Goal met, by the way.
I slept for twelve hours last night. Not sure what my host mom is thinking, after I woke up at 3:30 in the afternoon...
On Wednesday, I will be going to the south of France, to the Cannes Film Festival.
Vannes, Carnac, and Angers
Last weekend, we did not have class on Friday, so I took a little trip to the west of France.
On Thursday, I took the TGV train from Paris to Vannes (a special experience all on its own, my ears popped when we went through tunnels, it was so fast). My CouchSurfing host met me at the train station. She is a young woman who lives in Vannes; we chatted over a drink back at her apartment, then about a dozen of her friends came over. There was another CS, from Australia, staying there that night. It was very exciting for them to have an American AND an Australian all the way out in Vannes; her friends were great. People were up until 3 am, but I went to sleep at 1, because I was so tired from the week.
Friday morning, after breakfast, my CS host and the Australian took a car out to the coast, about 20 minutes away. Breathtakingly stunning, with rocky cliffs and huge waves. Then, after eating sandwiches on the beach, we explored the Carnac stones, which are lines and circles of over 3,000 stones, older than Stonehenge. Found a dolmen and a very tall menhir as well. We had a cup of coffee at a little place along the bay, watching sailboats.
They dropped me off at the train station around 5pm, and I headed to Angers. After a little train mix-up, and getting lost in the city, I found the bar where I met my next host, a student at Catho, where my parents studied when they were in France. After stowing my bag behind the bar and grabbing a pint, we went to a cafe to meet up with some of her friends. Then we went to a couple more bars, including a reggae bar (where we met some more friends) and an Irish pub. After getting back to her apartment, we had a little bit to eat and then went to bed. In the morning, we walked to Catho to see the campus, and then made lunch. She cooked, but I brought the tofu. Then, we drove over to see the cathedral and the chateau (a real castle from the middle ages). The castle is enormous, with towers, a moat, and bridges. We got in for free, because I just kept my mouth shut while she spoke, so they thought we were both French students. There are gardens on top of the walls, and a display of famous, long tapestries. After we got a cup of coffee, we headed across the bridge, to go to the top of the opera house, to get another view of the castle. Then we walked along the river until it was time for me to get my train to Paris. We definitely became quite good friends, and should be meeting up again later in the summer.
My train got into Paris with just enough time for me to run home and drop off my bag, then go up to a theater on the opposite side of Paris to see a play on Foucault, with the other Philosophy students. I ran in just in time. Afterward, we all went out for couscous, where we chatted for a couple of hours, and drank a lot of wine. Then the students went back to an apartment to drink and chat. I made it onto the metro, but realised I would miss my connection (the metro closes down at 2am on the weekends), so I stayed at my friend's apartment. The next morning, she had to leave at 8am, so the other friend who was stranded and i went out for breakfast. I got home at 2pm. Crazy weekend.
On Thursday, I took the TGV train from Paris to Vannes (a special experience all on its own, my ears popped when we went through tunnels, it was so fast). My CouchSurfing host met me at the train station. She is a young woman who lives in Vannes; we chatted over a drink back at her apartment, then about a dozen of her friends came over. There was another CS, from Australia, staying there that night. It was very exciting for them to have an American AND an Australian all the way out in Vannes; her friends were great. People were up until 3 am, but I went to sleep at 1, because I was so tired from the week.
Friday morning, after breakfast, my CS host and the Australian took a car out to the coast, about 20 minutes away. Breathtakingly stunning, with rocky cliffs and huge waves. Then, after eating sandwiches on the beach, we explored the Carnac stones, which are lines and circles of over 3,000 stones, older than Stonehenge. Found a dolmen and a very tall menhir as well. We had a cup of coffee at a little place along the bay, watching sailboats.
They dropped me off at the train station around 5pm, and I headed to Angers. After a little train mix-up, and getting lost in the city, I found the bar where I met my next host, a student at Catho, where my parents studied when they were in France. After stowing my bag behind the bar and grabbing a pint, we went to a cafe to meet up with some of her friends. Then we went to a couple more bars, including a reggae bar (where we met some more friends) and an Irish pub. After getting back to her apartment, we had a little bit to eat and then went to bed. In the morning, we walked to Catho to see the campus, and then made lunch. She cooked, but I brought the tofu. Then, we drove over to see the cathedral and the chateau (a real castle from the middle ages). The castle is enormous, with towers, a moat, and bridges. We got in for free, because I just kept my mouth shut while she spoke, so they thought we were both French students. There are gardens on top of the walls, and a display of famous, long tapestries. After we got a cup of coffee, we headed across the bridge, to go to the top of the opera house, to get another view of the castle. Then we walked along the river until it was time for me to get my train to Paris. We definitely became quite good friends, and should be meeting up again later in the summer.
My train got into Paris with just enough time for me to run home and drop off my bag, then go up to a theater on the opposite side of Paris to see a play on Foucault, with the other Philosophy students. I ran in just in time. Afterward, we all went out for couscous, where we chatted for a couple of hours, and drank a lot of wine. Then the students went back to an apartment to drink and chat. I made it onto the metro, but realised I would miss my connection (the metro closes down at 2am on the weekends), so I stayed at my friend's apartment. The next morning, she had to leave at 8am, so the other friend who was stranded and i went out for breakfast. I got home at 2pm. Crazy weekend.
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
Ireland
Friday afternoon, two friends and I flew to Shannon, Ireland, then took the bus to Cork. We met up with my sister and some of her friends, where we had some Guinness and cider. Then we went to two more bars. Eventually, we got back to her apartment and collapsed into bed.
On Saturday, we got up and walked into town to catch the bus to Blarney castle. There are absolutely gorgeous gardens and walks, and the castle itself was interesting to walk through. It feels like it could almost fall apart underneath you: the staircases are tight spirals with barely a step, there are holes in the floor where they used to drop boiling oil on English invaders, and the floor is terribly uneven with age. But when you reach the top, you can see across the rolling hills covered in farms and trees. We all kissed the Blarney stone, which was an experience, because a little old Irish man helps you slid down while he holds you so you can reach out and kiss the stone in the wall. After a picnic along the side of the road, we walked around the grounds to see the lake and the gardens. It was beautiful. The plants are very different from Paris. Here, everything is neat and orderly, and sometimes the trees are cut into box shapes. It is still beautiful, but not the wild spontaneity of Ireland. When we got back to Cork, we walked around the city a little bit, and some of us did a little shopping. We picked up some food at the English market and made a fantastic dinner back at the apartment. After a little bit of pre-gaming, we went out to Gorbey's (a club) and danced until closing.
Sunday, we made a big Irish breakfast, and then walked into Cork to explore a little more. We went through UCC to see where my sister goes to school, but mostly just strolled around town. Eventually, we made it back to the apartment to have dinner with my sister's friends, which is a raucous group of girls with a ton of stories. Later, we went out for a few more pints before we had to go to bed.
Nearly missed our plane on the way home, but made it back. Quite an adventure.
On Saturday, we got up and walked into town to catch the bus to Blarney castle. There are absolutely gorgeous gardens and walks, and the castle itself was interesting to walk through. It feels like it could almost fall apart underneath you: the staircases are tight spirals with barely a step, there are holes in the floor where they used to drop boiling oil on English invaders, and the floor is terribly uneven with age. But when you reach the top, you can see across the rolling hills covered in farms and trees. We all kissed the Blarney stone, which was an experience, because a little old Irish man helps you slid down while he holds you so you can reach out and kiss the stone in the wall. After a picnic along the side of the road, we walked around the grounds to see the lake and the gardens. It was beautiful. The plants are very different from Paris. Here, everything is neat and orderly, and sometimes the trees are cut into box shapes. It is still beautiful, but not the wild spontaneity of Ireland. When we got back to Cork, we walked around the city a little bit, and some of us did a little shopping. We picked up some food at the English market and made a fantastic dinner back at the apartment. After a little bit of pre-gaming, we went out to Gorbey's (a club) and danced until closing.
Sunday, we made a big Irish breakfast, and then walked into Cork to explore a little more. We went through UCC to see where my sister goes to school, but mostly just strolled around town. Eventually, we made it back to the apartment to have dinner with my sister's friends, which is a raucous group of girls with a ton of stories. Later, we went out for a few more pints before we had to go to bed.
Nearly missed our plane on the way home, but made it back. Quite an adventure.
Friday, May 1, 2009
Halfway Point
Quick update on what I've been doing:
Have one more midterm to go, on Tuesday, and a presentation. But this weekend I am going to Cork, Ireland to see my sister; couple of friends are coming with me.
I have been busy with classes and life here in Paris. It is odd how quickly France became normal. My day here is pretty normal, with the occasional adventure. I've been to the Louvre, the Orangerie, and the Musee d'Orsay; my art class met at these museums several times. It has been strange to see paintings that I have studied in class in the States. I've seen the Grand Odalisque by Ingres, and Olympia by Manet, two paintings we studied in Lenora's class last year. I have absolutely fallen in love with Impressionism. I've always loved Monet, but seeing the water lily paintings at the Orangerie was a beautiful experience.
I went to see some of the Loire River Valley chateaus with the group from Chicago. Hopefully will add more later, but basically they were gorgeous, particularly Amboise, and the gardens at Villandry.
My sister and her friends came through Paris last weekend, and I dragged them all over the city. We walked from the Musee d'Orsay to the Notre Dame Cathedral, then to get the best ice cream/sorbet in the city, then over to the flower market. Then after they got settled at the hostel, we went out to get something to eat and see Bercy Village (a cute little shopping area near my apartment). Then we met up with my French friend on the Ponte des Arts, then off to the Eiffel Tower, then back to the Latin Quarter to meet up with another friend. On Saturday, my sister and I chilled in the park of Bercy, then walked through the Latin Quarter after eating lunch in the garden of Luxembourg. We met up with her friends who had gone to Versailles. Then we went to get something to eat at a creperie, and meet up with some of my friends for wine on the steps of the Pantheon. While I was slightly tipsy that night, I decided that we should go visit my sister in Ireland... On Sunday, we climbed to the top of the Notre Dame Cathedral, then walked to the Arc de Triomphe. I was exhausted. But it was good for me to see some touristy things that I haven't bothered to do.
Hem, hem. BY the way, for anyone who actually reads this, I will be going to the Cannes Film Festival in May. To actually see films, not ogle movie stars. While we're on our trip to the south of France.
Have one more midterm to go, on Tuesday, and a presentation. But this weekend I am going to Cork, Ireland to see my sister; couple of friends are coming with me.
I have been busy with classes and life here in Paris. It is odd how quickly France became normal. My day here is pretty normal, with the occasional adventure. I've been to the Louvre, the Orangerie, and the Musee d'Orsay; my art class met at these museums several times. It has been strange to see paintings that I have studied in class in the States. I've seen the Grand Odalisque by Ingres, and Olympia by Manet, two paintings we studied in Lenora's class last year. I have absolutely fallen in love with Impressionism. I've always loved Monet, but seeing the water lily paintings at the Orangerie was a beautiful experience.
I went to see some of the Loire River Valley chateaus with the group from Chicago. Hopefully will add more later, but basically they were gorgeous, particularly Amboise, and the gardens at Villandry.
My sister and her friends came through Paris last weekend, and I dragged them all over the city. We walked from the Musee d'Orsay to the Notre Dame Cathedral, then to get the best ice cream/sorbet in the city, then over to the flower market. Then after they got settled at the hostel, we went out to get something to eat and see Bercy Village (a cute little shopping area near my apartment). Then we met up with my French friend on the Ponte des Arts, then off to the Eiffel Tower, then back to the Latin Quarter to meet up with another friend. On Saturday, my sister and I chilled in the park of Bercy, then walked through the Latin Quarter after eating lunch in the garden of Luxembourg. We met up with her friends who had gone to Versailles. Then we went to get something to eat at a creperie, and meet up with some of my friends for wine on the steps of the Pantheon. While I was slightly tipsy that night, I decided that we should go visit my sister in Ireland... On Sunday, we climbed to the top of the Notre Dame Cathedral, then walked to the Arc de Triomphe. I was exhausted. But it was good for me to see some touristy things that I haven't bothered to do.
Hem, hem. BY the way, for anyone who actually reads this, I will be going to the Cannes Film Festival in May. To actually see films, not ogle movie stars. While we're on our trip to the south of France.
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